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Until recently, nouveau riche Chinese would not have beencaught dead buying someone else’s cast-offs – even if theywere Hermès.
就在不久前,新兴的中国富人绝不会购买别人用过的二手物品,即便它们是爱马仕(Hermès)。
But as the Chinese market, which many luxury goods companies have come to rely on for growthin recent years, matures, a new brand of luxury shopper is emerging in China: the kind that loves abargain more than a logo.
但随着中国市场的成熟,一种新型的奢侈品买家正在中国出现:他们更喜欢便宜货而不是商标。近些年来,许多奢侈品公司开始依赖中国市场实现增长。
Shops selling, renting and repairing second-hand luxury goods are springing up across China, along with branches of high-end consignment shops from Japan and Hong Kong that buy and sellsecond-hand goods, paying the seller a commission.
中国各地涌现出许多销售、出租和修缮二手奢侈品的商店,同时,来自日本和香港的高档寄售商店也纷纷在中国开设分店。寄售商店买卖二手物品,并支付给卖家佣金。
Milan Court was one of the first pre-owned luxury stores in Shanghai when it opened eight yearsago. But its owner Liu Lian says she only recently started putting her logo on the store’s shoppingbags because consumers used to be ashamed to be caught buying used goods.
Milan Court于8年前开业,是上海最早的二手奢侈品商店之一。但老板刘莲(音译)表示,她最近才开始在商店的购物袋上印上本店商标,因为过去顾客们觉得,如果被人发现购买二手货会很丢人。
There are now signs that the stigma is melting away. Since 2009, Milan Court has posted double-digit annual sales growth. Ms Liu has opened six shops in Shanghai and plans to expand to otherprovinces.
如今有迹象表明,这种“污名”正在消失。自2009年以来,Milan Court每年的销售增长率高达两位数。刘莲在上海开了6家门店,并计划在其他省份开店。
“I don’t mind people knowing that I carry second-hand bags,” says Nidia Yuan, a regular customerof Milan Court. “I think it is worth it to buy at those prices.”
Milan Court的一位常客Nidia Yuan表示:“我不在意人们知道我拿的是二手包,我认为以那样的价格买很值。”
The second-hand shops should not be confused with the kind of high street thrift shops found inLondon or New York.
不能把中国新涌现的这些二手商店与伦敦或纽约商业街上的那种旧货店混为一谈。
Ju Geng, a second-hand shop in Shanghai’s chic French concession, has shelves packed with newor barely used Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Hermès bags. They range in price from Rmb2,000 ($320) for the cheapest Gucci to Rmb400,000 for a crocodile Birkin from Hermès.
Ju Geng是一家位于上海时尚的原法租界的二手商店,它的货架上陈列着新的或几乎没有用过的古驰(Gucci)、路易威登(Louis Vuitton)和爱马仕包包。这些包最便宜的有2000元人民币(合320美元)的一款古驰手包,最贵的有爱马仕用鳄鱼皮制作的Birkin包,售价高达40万元人民币。
Ms Liu and her competitors say the people selling handbags are not in it for the money, unlike inthe west where consumers liquidate luxury items in times of economic distress.
刘莲及其同行们表示,那些卖掉手包的人并不是为了钱,这一点与西方消费者在经济低迷时期卖出奢侈品不同。
Even now, when economic growth on the mainland has slowed to 7.4 per cent, no one isemptying their closets of Gucci to feed the children.
即便在中国经济增长率放缓至7.4%的今天,也没有人为了养家糊口而卖掉他们衣柜里的古驰。
Jo Zhou, manager of Ju Geng, says the popularity of luxury thrift stores has more to do withgrowing sophistication than with desperation. As Chinese consumers who once thought they weretoo rich to buy used goods travel more, they become familiar with foreign concepts such assecond-hand shops.
Ju Geng的经理Jo Zhou表示,二手奢侈品商店的流行更多是因为消费者心态日趋成熟,而不是走投无路。中国消费者曾经认为他们非常有钱而不需要买二手货,但随着他们旅行经历的增多,如今他们熟知二手商店这些外来词。 |
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