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全球经济萧条逐渐影响奢侈品牌的市场定位。
Hints:
Fashion Weeks
Burberry
Far East
Roger Saul
Mulberry
Kilver Court
States
主持：shenyubin
校对：cryforwhat
翻译&注解：shenyubin
答疑：赤_月
口语点评：steelver
口语节目地址：http://bulo.hujiang.com/menu/2120/item/656119/Yes, the models, the fashionistas have for genuinely been strutting, posing and seeming pretty pleased with themselves in New York and London this week - the opening of Fashion Weeks of the season. This is where the industry gets to celebrate its immense good fortune. The major labels of London, Paris and Milan have been flourishing as the economies around them teeter on the brink of disaster - that's because apparently the rich have just kept spending, unlike the rest of us, or at least they were until this year when signs of a Chinese slowdown seem to have caused something of a pout on the fashionistas' lips. The UK luxury giant Burberry is one brand to have warned of lower profits amid a weakening demand from the Far East. Is it the sign of the times? I've caught up with Roger Saul, founder of the British luxury brand Mulberry now has his own retail designer outlet Kilver Court in the west of England. I asked him what he was seeing.
"It has expanded at an almost unstoppable rate during what's been one of the worst world recessions any of us have ever experienced. So inevitably, it was going to hit the buffers at some point. You got a mature brand like Burberry that's, you know, when I started Mulberry back in the 70s, Burberry was massive in places such as Japan and the States. So it's a very mature luxury brand but it's had several renaissances over the last 20 years. But they have been in those markets, some were one of the first into China and around the world. If you look at that, that means that they're almost one of the ones that's going to find it harder to replace market retreat with fresh market position in what's sort of pretty forward world now."2013伦敦和纽约春夏时装周在本周开幕，模特和时尚达人们在T台上昂首阔步、摆造型，显得对自己十分满意。这是该行业庆祝其无穷财运的平台。尽管周围的经济在危机的边缘摇摇欲坠，伦敦、巴黎和米兰的时装业却一直兴盛。很明显，这是因为：不像我们，富人还是一直在或者至少在中国经济增速减缓（就好像让时尚追随者撅了一下嘴）的今年以前保持着消费。英国的奢侈品巨头Burberry是一个在远东地区需求疲软的形势下警惕低盈利的品牌。这是当前形势的迹象吗？罗杰•索尔是英国奢侈品品牌Mulberry的创立者，现在在英格兰西部已经拥有自己的零售专卖店Kilver Court。我问他看到了什么。
“在这世界最严重的经济衰退期间之一，Burberry以不可阻挡的速度扩张。所以不可避免的是，它会在某种程度上‘触礁’。拿成熟的Burberry品牌来说，在上世纪70年代我创立Mulberry时，Burberry在日本和美国已经很流行。在过去的20年里它也经历了数次复兴，所以是一个非常成熟的奢侈品牌。但是它们一直在那些市场中，有些品牌是首次进入中国和其它地区。如果你仔细审视，这意味着它们会发现在这不断向前的世界，用新市场定位来代替撤退的市场是很难的。”