看《暮色》10款潮衣衫
DRESSING BELLA初来乍到的贝拉当然和当地的学生穿得颇不一样,因为她来自阳光灿烂的地方,阴沉多雨的Forks让她措不及防。所以电影开始她没有穿雨衣啊啥的,看上去轻便很多。
“I wanted to dress Bella (Kristen Stewart) apart from the Forks kids
because she arrives there as an outsider ,” explains Twilight's
costume designer, Wendy Chuck. “She's in lots of warm earth tones, with some
Southwestern elements thrown in。”Being the new girl in school wasn't the only
obstacle Bella faced: “Having come from a warm, sunny climate to the rainy gloom
of Forks, we wanted to make her unprepared for the cold and the rain。” Which is
why, Chuck explains, we don't see Bella in a raincoat until later on in the
tale。
DRESSING EDWARD
爱德华人如其名,给人感觉就是一英国标准绅士的范儿,彬彬有礼,魅力十足。所以他的穿着也是复古与现代相结合,脚踏20世纪风格的绑带鞋,上面却是更现代一点的运动装。
In order to dress Edward Cullen (Robert Pattinson) in a manner befitting
the teen idol that author Stephenie Meyer envisioned, Chuck says she turned to
the royals of the early 19th century: ''His name personifies his look, which to
me was English Edwardian. He's the embodiment of an Edwardian gentleman — very
proper, has manners, and is very charming.'' The vampire's clothes weren't all
inspired by history, though. As Chuck points out, ''He wears a pair of shoes
that are lace-up and of the early 1900s, but then he also wears more current
sporty clothes.''
EDWARD'S PEA COAT
爱德华那件看上去很赞的厚呢短大衣是度身定做的,外面买不到哦!一共也就为电影拍摄做了3、4件。为了更好地体现吸血鬼的风格,设计师特地选择了低调的灰色,并且被做成了有现代气息的经典款式。
''Everybody wants to know where his pea coat came from!'' exclaims the
costumer. Unfortunately, it is a one-of-a-kind piece (er, sort of: three to four
were made for filming purposes) which Chuck herself crafted after not being able
to find the perfect one. ''We needed the right fit, I couldn't find
anything in the right shade of gray,'' she recalls. ''Catherine [Hardwicke, the
director] is really big on back story for her characters and anything that can
help that, even if it's in a texture or color of clothes.'' After considering
''probably 20 swatches,'' Chuck went with one from Mood Fabrics and based her
final design on a combination of other styles of pea coats. In the end, his
turned out as ''a classic shape with a modern twist.''
BELLA'S BROWN HOODIE
在停车场英雄救美的那出戏里,贝拉身着Rubbish牌的棕色连帽衫,戴着Ruth
Cross的连指手套,都不是什么大品牌,这是服装师有意而为之的。因为按照贝拉的个性呢,她可不是那种追逐时髦的女孩子。
During the pivotal parking lot scene, Bella wears a hoodie by Nordstrom
store brand Rubbish and mittens by Ruth Cross — a conscious choice by Chuck to
not use designer brands: ''My look is always character-based and not
fashion-based. It's really easy to get over-stylish, and I felt that Bella in
particular had to be anchored in the real world.''
BELLA'S CREAM THERMAL
因为在华盛顿取景,天气经常很冷,所以贝拉的兜帽衫底下还有好几层衣服,其中就包括这件米白色的Curious
Gypsy保暖衣,袖子上还有能钻出大拇指的孔,很特别。
Filming in Washington during the winter months meant dealing with icy
temperatures, so nestled under Bella's brown hoodie were lots of layers,
including this long-sleeved cream top. The thermal, by Curious Gypsy, had
thumbholes on the sleeve, making it ''a bit unusual and different,'' notes
Chuck。
BELLA'S BLUE JACKET
这件Jack BB
Dakota夹克衫本来不应该在电影里出现的。服装师本来就像在这幕使用前面那件兜帽,可是因为贝拉的头发也是棕色,画面上衣服和头发全都融在了一起。最后时刻服装师跑去店子里借了这件衣服来。而现在由于众多粉丝的要求,这件“暮色”夹克已经以84美元的价格出售咯。
The cargo jacket by Jack BB Dakota wasn't actually supposed to appear in
Twilight. ''I was planning to use the brown hoodie for that sequence, but the
director of photography hated the fact that her hair and the jacket were both
brown and felt she got lost in it,'' says Chuck, who then made a last-minute run
to outlet store Nordstrom Rack to hunt for a replacement. ''I literally brought
that blue one on set just before they rolled cameras. Then Catherine said,
'Wendy saved the day!' That made me a hero.'' Good news for fans: Because of its
massive popularity, the newly dubbed ''Twilight'' jacket had been reissued in
July for $84.
BELLA'S ACCESSORIES
随着剧情的发展和贝拉感情的变化,女主人公的服饰也有很大的转变,开始从假小子的打扮转向更女性化的了。Lucky
Brand的刺绣上衣,加上服装组手工打造的戒指和手镯,女人味十足。
As Bella's feelings for Edward change, careful viewers may notice a shift
in her wardrobe, as well: ''Her sense of style becomes less tomboy and more
feminine,'' Chuck says. ''So rather than go wildly feminine because she was
always wearing pants, that really left me to find some pieces that had a little
feminine touch.'' (This particular embroidered top is by Lucky Brand。) Also
adding to the girly quotient were Bella's accessories: a moonstone ring (which,
as Chuck recalls, was made by the props department), a headband (another custom
creation), and a delicate turquoise bracelet, which was ''something that we were
to think her mom gave her,'' adds the costumer who found the original cuff in
L.A. and had six copies made to fit Stewart's tiny wrist。
DRESSING THE CULLEN FAMILY
库伦家族都是吸血鬼,但是黑色却不合适,冰冷的感觉比较重要,所以灰白蓝是最好的选择。此外,这家人超有钱,他们的服饰品味自然要高很多。
Chuck had to pay special attention when mapping out clothes for the
blood-sucking Cullen brood. ''I didn't want to go too traditional black... I
wanted them to feel cold and frozen.'' So she outfitted the family in grays,
whites, and blues, while being careful to not go too over-the-top. ''The Cullens
have wildly expensive taste and money. At the same time, I had to anchor them in
the practical world of going to school and being able to blend with everyone
else.''
MORE ON THE CULLENS...AND THAT CREST
Rosalie的运动上衣来自GUESS,配以Forever
21的柔美围巾,以及特制的项链。其实库伦家族的成员都有以自己不同的方式佩戴某个特定的饰物。Alice也在脖子上挂了,她穿的则是来自
Anthropologie的蕾丝羊毛开衫。乖僻但富有艺术气息的Alice会穿一些有质感有层次的服饰,而且穿得很有个性。
Along with a blazer from GUESS, Rosalie (Nikki Reed, left) wears a scarf
(which Chuck remembers as Forever 21) and a Cullen crest necklace made by the
props department. ''When I first met Catherine, I presented the idea that the
Cullens should have a crest that they would wear in different ways,'' the
costumer says. ''It's a very old-world thing to do.'' Alice (Ashley Greene),
who's also sporting a smaller version of the family crest around her neck, wears
a lace cardigan from Anthropologie. ''She's kooky and very artistic, so it was
important to throw texture and layers on her, and for her to wear things in
unusual ways.''
BELLA'S PROM DRESS
贝拉的舞会装扮注定会是万众瞩目的焦点,所以选择得慎之又慎。短外套是个经典款式,但是有重新剪裁设计过;而裙子的则是踏破铁鞋无觅处,得来全不费工夫——才花了20块钱在折扣店里买得了这件蓝色丝绸裙装。
Knowing all eyes would be on Bella's prom look, Chuck had to choose
carefully. The bolero was a vintage piece that she cut, restyled, and
re-sequined. The dress was a little more serendipitous: ''It was miracle find!''
exclaims Chuck, who picked up the Max and Cleo silk dress at discount store Ross
— and for $20. (Fun fact: Chuck also purchased the only other one left in the
store so she could use the extra material to create one long dress. But, in the
end, she left the dress as-is, using the second for a photo double。) ''I always
say I channel clothes, I don't necessarily design them — it's divine sometimes
the way it happens!''
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