英文阅读：染发剂如何生效
时下染发已成为时尚。年轻人可以随心所欲改变头发的颜色，配合服饰和妆容，充分显示自己的个性;中老年人不喜欢白发就频繁地染黑。而如果对染发过程和染发产品缺乏了解，很容易会损害头发。这篇文章将带你了解染发剂如何发挥效用，揭秘染发过程。Most hair color products today have nicer smells than the tell-tale
rotten-egg odor that once accompanied permanents or hair coloring. And most
color can be applied easily: some to wet hair, others to dry hair, worked into a
shampoo-like lather, left to process and then rinsed(冲洗) and conditioned.
The down side is still that chemicals in hair coloring can be harsh and
harmful to your hair if you don't know what you're doing or if you color or perm
too often. How peroxide(过氧化物) and ammonia(氨) react with your hair is directly
related to the level and kind of product you're using. Here are basic
descriptions of the three major hair coloring product levels:
• Level 1, semi-permanent color -- This product adds color without changing
natural color dramatically. The hair color contains tiny color molecules that
enter the hair's cuticle, or outer layer, and go into your hair's cortex(头皮).
They don't interact with your natural pigments. And since the molecules are
small, they eventually exit the hair shaft(发干) after several shampoos, leaving
the hair as it was before treatment. This level generally lasts for 6 to 12
shampoos, covers up to 50 percent gray, enhances your natural color and leaves
no roots. This hair coloring won't lighten your hair color because it contains
no ammonia or peroxide.
• Level 2, demi-permanent color -- This product level lasts longer, through
24 to 26 shampoos. In this process, pre-color molecules penetrate the
cuticle(表层) and enter the cortex(皮层) where they then partner to create
medium-sized color molecules. Their larger size means they take longer to wash
out. These products do not contain ammonia so the natural pigment can't be
lightened. However, it contains a small amount of peroxide, which allows for a
subtle, but noticeable, color enhancement. It also blends and covers gray. (Both
semi- and demi-permanent colors can become permanent on permed or
already-colored hair!)
• Level 3, permanent color -- This is what you need for a more significant
color change (to go from black to blond, you'll still need to go with a process
called double process blonding and it'd be wise to get this it done
professionally). In this level, both ammonia and peroxide are used. Tiny
molecules enter all the way into the cortex, where they react and expand to a
size that cannot be washed out. Your hair actually has to grow out over time.
This product acts to lighten the hair's natural pigment to form a new base and
then to add a new permanent color. The end result is a combination of your
natural hair pigment and the new shade you chose. That means the color may
appear different on you than on someone else using the same color. Regular
touch-ups of 4 to 6 weeks are generally needed to eliminate roots -- hair with
your natural color growing at half an inch per month from your scalp(头皮).
Now that we've reviewed the different product levels used in hair coloring,
let's look at what actually happens to your hair. For example, if you're blonde
and are going darker -- to brown -- permanent hair color uses the interaction
between the ammonia and the peroxide to create a new color base in your hair
shafts. If you go in the opposite direction -- from black or brown to blonde --
the hair goes through an additional step. First, bleach is used to strip the
color from the hair. Then the ammonia-peroxide reaction creates the new color
and deposits it in the hair shaft. If you use a semi-permanent color, the hair
is coated with color, rather than deposited into the hair shaft.
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